Sat Jan 28 (Hicks Bay to Maraehako, 82km):

We set off with high hopes today, optimistic that it would be an easier riding day than the last.  And our hopes were justified.   The hills weren't as steep or as long and at the end, one of the odometers said it was only 74km.

We had our first flat today.   At lunch, I heard a loud pop, and Jenni, who was near my bike, actually saw my rear tire go flat. Turned out that the valve stem, a rubber one, was shredded.  We figured it must be from the rough terrain (chip and tar, the gravel road to the lighthouse).  With Jenni and Fran to help, we had the new tube (metal valve stem) installed and the wheel back on bike so that I could continue on.

We were staying at the Maraekho  Bay Retreat, the only area hostel owner by a Maori, Pihi, and his sister, Puna.  The retreat was right at water's edge and reminded us all of the Swiss Family Robinson treehouse.   Almost built into the hillside, it was a mulit-level building that had grown over time, with almost more decks and balconies than there were rooms.  It had a hot-tub and hammocks from which you could look out into the bay whilst listening to a small waterfall that trickled ten feet away.  Children could spend a month playing hide-and-seek there, every corner a possibility, every room a mystery.

There was an outdoor dining area with a huge outdoor grill and oven.

There were mosaic tiles/designs and paua shells embedded in the driveway, in steps, in the floor, in a myriad of places you'd least expect.  Rope was used as a decorative touch throughout the rooms, even as the towel holders.

You could go deep-see fishing with Pihi, putz about in one of their play kayaks, or rent one of their sea-going kayaks.  It was so remote from an urban centre, we'd have to take our rubbish with us since the nearest place to get rid of garbage was 20 km away.

From the rooms, it was only steps (horizontally or vertically) to the water.  Brian's Place was wonderfully charming, but you couldn't find a better location than this place.

That night, Jenni and Terri cooked a lasagne using polenta instead of noodles and silver beet instead of cheese, followed by apple crumble for dessert.  Again, a resounding success!

The bad news, Jenni informs us, is that we've run low on bread so we won't have our normal-sized lunches.